Boot and shoe manufacture



Feb. 22, 1927. 1,618,809

J. P. BYRON ET AL BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURE Filed March 2. 1925 Patented Feb. 22,927.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE..

JEROME P. BYRON AND HAROLD A. EVANS, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO PARCO SPECIALTY CO., 0F LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, A

CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURE.

Application inea mmh 2, 1925. serial nb. 12,763.

The resent invention, though having [ields o more general usefulness, is more particularly related to the art of boot and shoe manufacture. From a more limited aspect, it relates to shoe uppers having French-cord binding stri s folded around their edges, and to metho s of making such uppers.

According to present-dayl practice, the binding strip, after it is sewed to the upper, and an adjacent portion of the upper, are coated with wet cement, after which the strip is folded around the edge of the sheet to which it is sewed, and the folded strip is pressed into contact with the sheet. The wet cement is objectionable. It has therefore been proposed to use dry-cemented strips that are sewed to the shoe upper in dry-cemented form, and to heat the dry cement to liquefy it duringl the folding and pressing operation. The dry cement has a tendency, however, to interfere with the sewing operation. The liquefied cement at intermediate portions of the stri furthermore, tends to engage against t e said edge of the sheet, interfering with proper folding.

An object of the invention, therefore, is to improve upon present-day practice, to the end of roducing a better French-corded upper. ther objects will appearI hereinafter and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

The invention will now be explained in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a view of a shoe upper manufactured accordingv to the present invention; Fig. 2 is a view illustrating a preferred method of manufacturing the improved binding strip of the present invenp tion; Fig. 3 is a section' of a shoe upper showing a binding strip sewed thereto, prior to the folding operation; Fig. 4 is a similar section showln the binding strip already folded, the section being taken upon the line 4-4 of Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows, but being enlarged with respect to Fig. 1; and Fig. 5 is a section similar to Fig. 4 of a modification.

According to the present-day practice, a French-cord binding strip 2 is irst'sewed at.

12, along the edge 8 of the two longitudinally disposed edges 8 and 26, to a face 10 of a s oe upper 6, alongj The upper 6 may e constituted of leather, cloth, or any other desired-material and the Abinding strlp maybe constituted of cloth,

an edge 4 ofthe upper.

or less close parallelism, as shown in Fig. 3.

Wet cement is then applied tothe other face 16 of the shoe upper, along the edge 4, and to the Whole face 14 of the strip 2, after which the binding strip is `folded, around the secured-together edges 4 and 8 and pressed fiat into contact with the face 16 ofthe shoe upper. The binding strip is held in contact with the face 16 by the cement.

The use of the wet cement is a troublesome factor in shoe factories. It has therefore been proposed to dry-cement the whole face 14 of the strip 2 prior to the sewing operation. rIhe objections to this proposal have' already been explained. j

According to the present invention, a ortion only of the face .14 of the strip is rycemented. This portionl extends from the free edge26 of the strip to a point 18, Figs. 3 and 4, or a point 20, Fig. 5. It is thus possible for the sewing needle to pierce the uncemented portion of the strip between the edge 8 and the point 18 or the point 20. The

oint 18 has the advantage over the point 2O in that the cement is coated over a large area of the strip. The disadvantage, how-` ever, is that, after the dry cement has been liquefied, portions of the strip near the point- 18 tendto engage and stick to the edge 4 of the shoe upper, resisting the effort of the operator to pull the strip tightly around the edges 4 and 8. A baggy fold results. By having the portion of the strip between the points 18Lnd 20:5.'uncoated, the tendency is eliminated, as the'edge 4 ofthe sheet engages tion.

uncoated vportions only of the strip between the edge 8 and the point 20.

The folding may be done by hand or by machine. In' either case, it is well to heat the dry-cemented strip as a whole before commencing the folding operation. This may be-efected in any desired way, as by placing the shoe upper, with binding strip attached, in an electric oven, at a mild temperature, until the dry cement has become softened or liquefied. It is not, however, eissential to heat the whole. strip at once, as 1t maybe heated step by step, during the foldin operation. In the latter event, it 1s consigered better to heat the strip prior to the actual fold-pressing operation` as a cold fold resser will tend to cool, and therefore arden, the liquefied cement. The .dry cement may be of the same color as the blnding strip to prevent undesirable effects 1n case the l binding sti-1p during the fold-pressing opera- The strip may be cemented in many d ifferent ways, all within the scope of the mvention. The cement may, forI example, be applied in the form ofdry strips, that may be caused to adhere to the binding strip 2 under heat. It is preferred, however, to apply the dry cement in liquid form, as from a cement ot 22. A roll 24, the lower por tion of w ich dips into the pot 22,. 1s pos1 tively driven by well known mechanism (not shown). The strip is drawn over the roll, as illustrated in Fig. 2, becoming thus coated. As the strip leaves the roll 24, the cement hardens and dries, after which the now dry-cemented strip is rolled into reels 30. A folder 28 .oauses the strip to become longitudinally folded before it travels to the roll 24, lso that the upper folded portion, as viewed in Fig. 2, does not contact with the roll 24 and, therefore, remains uncoated.

The reels 30 may be sup lied direct to the shoe factories, thus conliiiing the cement pots to the manufacturers of the strips, and eliminating them from the shoe factories.

The dr cement may be any well known adhesive' acking, such as gums, Para, etc.

It will be understood that the invention is equally applicablel to other articles than that whlch is herein chosen for purposes of illustration, and the elements o the article need not'necessarily be of the relativeA dimensions shown.

It may be desirable, for example,` tol fold an element of relatively large dimension over the edge of an elementof relatively small dimension. For definiteness, all such elements that are to be folded will be referred to in the claims as the strip and the element about the edge of which the strip is to be folded will be referred to as the sheet, though the adopted terminology may lnot be Vstrictly applicable cemented, the marginof the strip a i uehed cement oozes through the .then folded over t to the specilic article which may be under consideration.

The invention is not restricted to the exact embodiment that is illustrated and described herein, but modifications may be made by persons skilled in the art without departing from its spirit and scope, as defined in the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. As an article of manufacture, a sheet of material to one face of which, along an edge of the sheet, an edge of a strip is secured, the margin of the strip adjacent to the unsecured edge of the strip bein dryjacent to the secured edge of the strip not being cemented, the unsecured edge of the strip being folded around the secured-together edges and pressed into contact with the other face of the sheet.

2. The method of making shoe uppers which comprises coatinr with adhesive material one side of the strip throughout a portion of the width leaving the remaining portion of said side uncoated, sewing the uncoated margin to one face of the marginal portion of the upper, folding the strip over` the edge ofthe upper, and causing the adhesive coated portion of the strip to adhere to the opposite face of the marginal portion of the upper.

3. The method of making shoe uppers which comprises coating with adhesive material one side of the strip throughout a portion of its width leaving the remaining portion of said side uncoated, sewing the uncoated margin to one face of the marginal portion of the upper, the coated portion being. conditioned so as not to stick to surfaces with which it contacts during the stitching o eration, folding the stri over the edge o the upper, and causing t e adhesive coated portion of the strip to adhere to the opposite face of the marginal portion of the upper.

4r. An article of manufacture comprising a sheet and a strip stitched together along juxtaposed edges and elsewhere held to gether by a stri e of cement confined to the unstitched widt of the stri the stri of cement extendin longitu inally ofpe the strip at one side o the stitching.

5. An article of manufacture com rising a shoe up er, a strip coated with a hesive material a ong one margin and stitched to an ed e of the upper along its uncoated margin, t e strip being folded over the edge of the upper and secured to the opposite side of the upper by said material.

6. An elongate binding strip of the type to be secured along the edge of a sheet and e edge and then have its free margin cemented to the opposite side of the sheet, characterized in that a band of cement is applied to the margin of said strip which is to be folded over the sheet edge of the strigto the sheet is not hindered before the strip is secured to the sheet and in by cement on t at edge of the strip.

that the margin of the strip which is to In testimony whereof, we have hereunto l0 be first secured to the sheet is freefrom cesubscrbed our names.

ment, whereby no cement need be brushed on the sheet after the two are secured to- HAROLD A. EVANS. gether and whereby the securing of the first JEROME P. BYRON. 

